When you meet New Zealand's Karen Walker, you know exactly who she was back in high school—the kind of trendsetter who could throw on her father's button down over an old pair of jeans with some vintage accessories, and just look effortlessly cool. I told her this backstage at The Altman Building, after taking in the runway presentation for her new collection, "Angels." And like any truly cool girl would, she just laughed. "I don't know how effortless it was back then," Walker admits. "At the time it always feels really hard. I'd like to think there was some cool there—but it was a long time ago!"

Walker's latest collection continued to draw inspiration from her many muses, whom she generally refers to as P.L.U. ("People Like Us"); that is, people who understand and aspire to her signature aesthetic. "It just means that we do the kind of work that we like, and anyone else who comes along who likes it, so be it," she told me. "My girl likes to mix it up with contrasts—pretty dresses with street edge thrown in. In fact, I think that's the main thing about her. She likes to throw contrasts together in every area of her life."

For fall, Walker presented a line that was quirky and sophisticated all at once, winking to past collections, yet evolving in new ways. Always one to blur the line between femme and homme, this time she mixed tuxedo jackets with ruffled blouses; Walker also flirted with color, weaving in unexpected splashes, most successfully in a stunningly simple grey cardigan and cropped-trouser combo. Some frocks seemed to mimic the seasons—one model was the vision of a snow angel in head-to-toe white, while another was Autumn personified donning a plaid trench in leafy shades of red, yellow, orange and brown. Mini skirts and high-waisted skinnies in eye-catching acid-washed velvet were paired with striped socks and Jonathan Kelsey's metallic open-toed heels, keeping things self -assuredly kooky, and yet always chic.

To see our runway video from the show, click here now. And New York girls, take note: she just opened her first pop-up shop in collaboration with Den (30 East 11th Street). You've got the next three months to check out the clothing, eyewear, and fine jewelry—and fall in love.

- Caroline Stanley + Kristi Garced

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