Driven as much by her passion for painting as her love for design, Annie Costello Brown's first collection explores the delicate balance between classic and tough, mixing leather and metal together in each piece. Brown gives Pulse the exclusive scoop on how she she fell into jewelry making and what inspires her designs.

How did your interest in accessories first sprout and grow?
Years ago I used to scour the flea market in Sausalito and take apart vintage jewelry and make it my own. The designs I was making at age 13 were probably the coolest stuff I ever made. By 14, I was working with small independent clothing and jewelry designers in the Bay Area. After graduating from the San Francisco Art Institute, I moved to Los Angeles so I could have more studio space to paint. My designing is very connected to my art-making, and to me I can't live with out doing both.

What were some of your inspirations in creating your first line?
One of the inspirations at that time was "Artwear" an exhibition in San Francisco at the De Young Museum. I love handcrafted old clothes, so I was attempting to have that look as well. My favorite clothes are vintage military and workwear, because the fabrics are simple and humble, but retain a lot of character. Tough yet feminine leather jewelry wears in nicely over time like a great leather jacket or belt. I was trying to make something unique and totally wearable, so I started designing a collection and wearing it out to parties. There was a great response so I called it a collection and took it to a few stores in Los Angeles and New York.

What has been the most popular design in your current line?
My most popular styles are the braided and knotted chokers and the extra long layered necklace. All these styles use chain that is then covered with hand-stitched leather. The look is not delicate, but is very elegant in a tough way.

People seem to really be responding to your mix of metal and leather. Is that a theme you will be continuing as you design more jewelry or are you already exploring other combinations/designs?
I really love the combination of leather and brass/steel so I will definitely keeping working with this blend for a while. Down the road I would like to use wood, and any other material that inspires me. I have a new line on the way. I'm working right now on a holiday collection using glass and leather in collar shapes. I love menswear and androgyny so those are my starting points. I'm looking forward to the future!

Annie Costello Brown collection is available from Des Kohan and South Willard in Los Angeles, and Eva and AtelierNY in New York.

-Jin Moon

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